Cathy Horyn Fashion Review: DVF

Key Points:

• Henry Zankov made his debut as DVF's creative director with a spring 2027 collection that modernized the brand’s iconic elements, focusing on sporty sex appeal, vibrant colors, and fluid silhouettes without relying on nostalgia.
• The show, held on the High Line, featured versatile styles reflecting varied notions of sexiness, though the uniform platform shoes on models were criticized for limiting movement and individuality.
• Other New York designers showcased distinct approaches: Rachel Scott’s Proenza Schouler collection emphasized undone, grown-up femininity; Rachel Comey presented free-form shapes inspired by artist Rosalyn Drexler; and Coach’s Stuart Vevers delivered a darkly romantic, Belgian-influenced collection with standout prom dresses.
• Tory Burch highlighted texture and depth with embellished shifts and mid-century glamour infused with a military edge, while Tommy Hilfiger’s preppy, polished show at the Plaza Hotel felt flawless but somewhat conventional, evoking a department store vibe.
• Overall, American designers this season largely maintained traditional views of femininity without significantly challenging contemporary ideas of women’s fashion for 2026-27.