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Why the flavors of some of France’s famous cheeses are at risk
CNN • • world
Key Points:
- Historic heat waves and prolonged droughts in France are causing heat stress in dairy cows, leading to reduced milk production and threatening the quality and supply of artisanal cheeses like Salers.
- Strict AOP regulations require cows to graze on pasture for most of the year, but drought conditions have forced many producers to halt production or switch to cheeses with looser rules, such as Cantal.
- French authorities have temporarily relaxed some AOP rules for certain cheeses to allow increased supplemental feeding or sourcing feed from outside designated regions, though some producers resist changes that might compromise cheese authenticity.
- Research indicates that grass-fed cows produce richer, more flavorful milk, making the shift to supplemental feed a potential risk to cheese quality, although some experts believe changes may be subtle to consumers.
- The ongoing climate challenges are causing financial strain and demoralization among cheesemakers, with some facing significant revenue losses and a decline in traditional cheese production, while the distinctiveness of France’s terroir cheeses is increasingly at risk.
