Schiaparelli Steps Into the Light

Key Points:

• Daniel Roseberry’s latest Schiaparelli couture collection in Paris marks a shift toward lighter, more wearable designs, moving away from previous gimmicks like animal horns and scorpion tails, with influences from Azzedine Alaïa and Halston visible in the silhouettes.
• Roseberry incorporated innovative materials such as poured silicone treated like silk and real dried flowers for embellishments, blending modernity with surrealist elements, though some molded bustier shapes lacked emotional impact.
• London-based designer Michael Stewart debuted at Paris couture with his signature bead-entrapped styles and new corseted bodies, collaborating with corset-maker Mr. Pearl, though some critics found the collection less dynamic compared to his previous, lighter London show.
• Iris van Herpen’s Sonic Starquakes collection featured cutting-edge scientific collaborations and innovative lightweight fabrics, including plasma-glowing tubes and glass bead embroidery, but the shapes were perceived as somewhat repetitive and lacking fresh inspiration.